Rolex airking 5520 Gold cap

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 5520

A beautiful and increasingly appreciated example of Rolex’s more unusual vintage gold-capped Oyster models. The reference 5520 belongs to a fascinating period in Rolex history, when the brand offered selected Oyster models with a substantial layer of gold applied over a stainless-steel case.

Rather than being simply gold plated, the gold-capped construction uses a much thicker layer of gold, giving the case the rich appearance of a solid-gold watch while retaining the strength of the stainless-steel case underneath. This technique was used by Rolex on a relatively limited selection of vintage models and makes the 5520 particularly interesting from a collector’s perspective.

This example has a gorgeous warm cream dial, with applied baton markers and matching gold-coloured hands and coronet. The combination of the aged cream dial and gold-capped case gives it exactly the kind of understated vintage character that makes these early Rolexes so appealing.

The 34 mm Oyster case is classic Rolex of the period: compact, elegant and highly wearable, with the screw-down Oyster construction and acrylic crystal. Inside is the Rolex calibre 1575, a robust automatic movement with date indication that became one of Rolex's most respected workhorse calibres.

A particularly charming Rolex for someone looking beyond the more obvious Datejust and Submariner references, and a wonderful representation of Rolex's understated approach to precious-metal watches during the 1970s.

Technical details

• Reference: 5520

• Serial: 3074XXX

• Year: 1972

• Size: 34 mm

• Movement: Rolex calibre 1575, automatic

• Dial: Cream with applied baton markers

• Case: Gold-capped stainless steel

• Crystal: Acrylic

• Lug width: 19 mm

• Condition: Very good vintage condition

• Warranty: 2-year warranty

• Strap: Leather

• SKU: 1960