Rolex Explorer Ref. 5500 – 1957

An exceptionally rare Rolex Explorer reference 5500, dating to 1957. While the reference 5500 is most commonly associated with the Air-King, this example is distinctly different, bearing the Explorer designation on its dial. Combined with its exceptionally rare gilt movement, this makes for a particularly fascinating and unusual vintage Rolex.

The 34mm stainless steel case features the understated proportions of the early Explorer family. Its champagne-coloured dial has developed an attractive, textured patina over the decades, beautifully complementing the applied steel hour markers and hands. The result is a watch with considerable vintage character and a distinctive appearance.

The movement is what truly sets this example apart. A gilt movement in this configuration is extraordinarily uncommon, making it an especially interesting find for the serious Rolex collector. Its rarity invites comparison with the legendary albino Explorers, although this example offers a different and equally compelling story in a more compact 34mm case.

The watch is also believed to have a connection to the Canadian market. One theory suggests that the unusual movement configuration may have been introduced at the initiative of the Canadian Rolex importer, potentially on his own risk. Although the precise circumstances remain uncertain, this possibility adds another layer of intrigue to an already exceptional piece.

A rare Explorer-designated reference 5500 with an unusual movement configuration, attractive dial ageing and a fascinating place in the world of vintage Rolex collecting.

Technical Details

• Model: Rolex Explorer

• Reference: 5500

• Year: 1957

• Serial: 2859XXX

• Case: Stainless steel, 34mm

• Dial: Champagne-coloured dial with aged patina

• Movement: Rolex calibre 1520, automatic, gilt 

• Bracelet: Stainless steel Oyster

• Warranty: 2-year warranty

• SKU: 1750